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Among other sporting uses, I'd like to employ this Hero4 Black as a dashboard cam in my autos. The batteries seem to last an hour and change for continuous video so I presume a Battery BacPac would increase that to a few hours. Any experience here? The Auto Charger with the plugin for the lighter outlet looks promising. Has any one tried this for contiuous loop recording while on the road? Thanks
 

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i use a cigarette-usb adapter intended for a TomTom to power my 3+, loop recording doesn't work like a normal dashcam's does so i just continuously record
 

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the question you should be doing that not asking?? Lol. the cam has this ability to accept

Enjoy FISH
 

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The answer appears to be the auto cigarett lighter/dual USB output along with a reasonably long cable (e.g. AutoCharger) . I've used a Dremel tool to cut out the region of the housing to allow the cable to plug into the Hero4. More testing is required but it appears as though the camera will run in the loop mode to capture the view of the road as hoped. As I understand it the loop mode captures blocks of footage about 15min in length and starts anew. After the fourth it begins a fifth and deletes the 1st. One thing I did notice was just how hot the camera became and it was not due to a warm sun on the dash. I'd guess it was in the neighborhood of 110F. I can only imagine how hot the FET junctions are running and it makes me wonder about reliability. The next test will use the skeleton back to reduce heat an improve audio.
In fairness there is at least one other product out there that uses the GoPro propreitary connector port instead of the miniUSB. A web search will find them easily.
 

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The answer appears to be the auto cigarett lighter/dual USB output along with a reasonably long cable (e.g. AutoCharger) . I've used a Dremel tool to cut out the region of the housing to allow the cable to plug into the Hero4. More testing is required but it appears as though the camera will run in the loop mode to capture the view of the road as hoped. As I understand it the loop mode captures blocks of footage about 15min in length and starts anew. After the fourth it begins a fifth and deletes the 1st. One thing I did notice was just how hot the camera became and it was not due to a warm sun on the dash. I'd guess it was in the neighborhood of 110F. I can only imagine how hot the FET junctions are running and it makes me wonder about reliability. The next test will use the skeleton back to reduce heat an improve audio.
In fairness there is at least one other product out there that uses the GoPro propreitary connector port instead of the miniUSB. A web search will find them easily.
Have you considered the Switronix cable for the GoPro?? It plugs into the rear port neatly, and requires no internal battery in the GoPro itself, thus reducing some heat.....

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another reasonalbe solution

Good day Ifti,
Yes, I had discovered the Swiftronix offerings and they do offer a nice solution. The cable with the housing attachment runs about $40 which is not bad but I thought I'd try the USB solution first since everything is in hand. The one review of the Switronix cable housing on amazon was from an knowledgable user and he offers a couple of photos regarding the housing interface to the Hero4. He points out there is a dimensional mismatch which I hope the vendor would remedy in the near future. Thanks for the input.
Amazon Review URL:
I guess you will have to look it up as the rules of the forum preclude my posting a URL of length until I'm properly vetted. Alas....
 

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Just the thread I was looking for.

Running a continuous loop and being powered from an external source.

I can only assume the battery will also be charged, but that isn't as important as the continuous loop recording.

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Finally got my "full time" recording running in a looped video. So far so good.

The camera saves each five minutes of the two hour selection. So far so good.

What I have noticed is that the looping does NOT currently overwrite the earlier 5 minute blocks once the initial two hours is up but just continues to write until the SD card is full.

My current workaround is to just delete the previous batch of 5 minute segments after each hour or so at whatever place I've stopped. Not a big deal but I wonder if that's the way "looping" is supposed to work? The camera stays on all day and it's a simple matter to connect with the iPad and delete the files.

Am I missing something in the looping setting?

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my Hero 4 BW is from Oct 2014, and ran it for hours on end always outside the case. I am still here today using it. without buying anything extra, meaning no exchanged gopro it works as expected.
 

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Adulation, what loop setting are you using? I just recently tried out looping with 20 minutes set and it ran for 7 hours straight with no issues, and at the end I had just 20 minutes of 5 minute videos (actually 5 clips, 4 of 5 minutes and the last one of 3 minutes). All the previous 6 hours was erased automatically.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Am I missing something in the looping setting?

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Perhaps you have read this ARTICLE ABOUT LOOPING on the Gopro website? If not here ya go. The correct and properly formatted sd card is very important in the process. Other than that if you read about how the looping procecess works it is fairly straightforward (Kinda).
 

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OK, chalk this "problem" up to the operator.

How I "assumed" loop video worked and what it actually does is two different things and amazingly, once I realized WHY is works that way, I saw the light.

Video looping works in the CURRENT SESSION. Doh!

Once I realized that, looping works as advertised. Once the operator stops the session, it is saved and the next session starts a new loop.

But you guy already knew that.

Still learning and reading but at least my looping crisis is "solved".

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it creates a file of how many minutes you want, till the card is full, and it will over write the very beginning file more or less over write each older file till you stop the camera. a few things may also happen on the way

1 you wore the battery down. and only got 40gb of video , and the best shot was coming up.

2 you have it powered up and you filled the card up and over written the best part.

3.you did both and got the best shot caught.

that is how I see loop recording
 

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What about operating temperatures using a GoPro as a dash cam?! I am not convinced the casings of the GoPro can take hot days in full sun, especially in a car. Worse - is leaving it inside the car on a hot day!
I have the GPHero+ LCD and since it cannot be removed from the water housing, the rubber seals, the back covers, etc all can warp in such extreme heat
 

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it creates a file of how many minutes you want, till the card is full, and it will over write the very beginning file more or less over write each older file till you stop the camera. a few things may also happen on the way

1 you wore the battery down. and only got 40gb of video , and the best shot was coming up.

2 you have it powered up and you filled the card up and over written the best part.

3.you did both and got the best shot caught.

that is how I see loop recording
On #2 it is important to realize (for those who haven't experimented with this) that any files that are already saved on the SD card will NOT be overwritten in the current recording session. Only the current sessions files get overwritten in looping mode.

If you have an hours worth of saved video on the card yesterday and did not delete them today, they will stay on the card.

If the amount of space remaining on the card is less than the amount you'll need for looping then you will not be able to even start a looping session.

An example:

You have a four hour recording time SD card. You have used 3 and a half hours of saved video. You will not be able to start a NEW looping session of one hour but you can change the loop size to 20 minutes and continue to loop for the rest of the day as that setup only requires 25 minutes to loop continuously. The previously recorded (saved) video will NOT be overwritten.

My current full time setup is to run the 20 minute looping video full time. It can run all day and only the current 20 minute loop is saved at any one time. Once the camera is stopped, it then starts a NEW set of looping videos, saving the last session until it gets manually deleted.

Most people who will be using the looping function will obviously test this out at home to confirm that they won't get shut out from recording after a long day on the road.

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OK, here's my current setup for "full time" GoPro on the motorcycle.

The camera is powered externally. It gets turned ON at the first start of the day and basically stays ON until I get home.

I can elect to stop the camera (manual or via wireless) when I get off to do other things, but generally it just stays powered ON.

I had originally had it set to power on/off with the ignition key, but that turned out to be unnecessary as the idle current draw is miniscule so it just stays powered ON.

This also allows me to restart a new video (or delete junk) from the comfort of the restaurant table or review over lunch if need be, assuming I can get a seat close to the bike! No need to keep removing the camera from the case or mount.

So far so good.

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can i ask how you got it to power on/off with the ignition?
Sorry, I may have stated that incorrectly. What I meant to say was that the camera gets power TO the camera, on and off, with the ignition switch.

My bike (BMW) has a dedicated USB port on the right forward side and I was using that to power the camera. I have since concluded that in BMW's infinite wisdom, they only made that USB plug about 500ma instead of the 1 or 2 amps that the GoPro needs so I now have a dedicated powered USB outlet (2.1 amps) direct from the battery. Fused, of course. This allows the camera to run full time with no other intervention from me other than to turn it off at the end of the day.

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OK, just put a meter on the power feed to the GoPro. 1.06 amps at 5 volts. It is turned ON and charging.

It's even less when running as the battery apparently does not charge then. Just at a half amp.

The previously mentioned crisis with the BMW USB was due to another circuit I had tied into it. When that was removed, the load dropped enough to power the camera without dropping off line.

Now I've got two ways to power the cam. USB port on the side and external port on the back.

Always good to have a choice I suppose.

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Was about to say the same. Also, why not get the combo cable whilst at it? That way, you can hook up an external microphone for the engine noise, or play stuff back on the infotainment system (or do both).
 
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